Really good ramen in general, and Shinobi’s Tan Tan Men in particular, can take you in off the street when you’re cold, hungry and beaten-down, and leave you warmed, restored and even feeling a bit opiated.
Sure ramen was always considered junk food, five packages for a dollar. But done right, it can be a great comfort food, especially in ill weather. In Korea, U.S. soldiers would trade their government issued meal packets for hot bowls of ramen. $1 extra would get you chicken, cheese or egg.
Tan Tan’s broth is meaty, hot and spicy. Topping the island of ramen (bean paste-based) is a thick layer of crunchy cabbage, itself topped with delicately minced pork and scallions.